New York City is willing to hire thousands to make sure you can't buy a Big Gulp but actual fraud is no big worry.

The group Oceana did genetic testing of foods labeled at restaurants and found that every one of 16 sushi bars they investigated sold the researchers mislabeled fish. 39 percent of the seafood from 81 grocery stores and restaurants was not what the establishment claimed it was.

Is this a new problem?  It's no secret to anyone not educated by advertising that a lot of organic food is not organic and if you have not bought veal and gotten pork at some point in your life, you are just lucky. 

Under Many Aliases, Mislabeled Foods Find Their Way to Dinner Tables By Kim Severson has the sordid details of elite food on the cheap.

So just order the Asian catfish. It's probably what you get when you order that more expensive Grouper anyway.